Glacier National Park - September 2004




We spent a week visiting Glacier National Park in Montana, a mecca for hikers and nature tourists. The weather was varied, but we can't complain because we were treated to several 'moods' of Glacier. We didn't do all the things we had planned, but who ever does? We spent less time camping after bad weather and bear activity in the campgrounds convinced us that the hiking was the reason we were there. We also didn't stay overnight in the backcountry and so missed a great deal of the park that is never seen by most visitors. That didn't keep up from seeing and experiencing the wilderness and beauty though. I hope we have the chance to return someday.

Click the map to the left for a full size version from the National Park Service.



Day 0:   Arrival (no pictures)
 
We landed in Kalispell in the evening and traveled directly to Lake McDonald Lodge inside the park.
 
Day 1:   Going-to-the-Sun Road, Many Glacier, Two Medicine, Trail of the Cedars
Day one was primarily exploring by Glacier's roads. We traveled the Going-to-the-Sun Road from west to east, then drove up to the Many Glacier campground and established a campsite. We then drove down to Two Medicine and then back across Going-to-the-Sun to walk the Trail of the Cedars. Finally, a third tour of Going-to-the-Sun brought us back to Many Glacier for the night.
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Day 2:   Many Glacier, Iceberg Lake Trail
On the second morning, everything was drenched. The tent had kept us dry if not entirely warm, but getting out of a soaking wet backpacking tent without getting you and your stuff a little wet as well is a challenge. We heated something for breakfast and decided the best way to warm up was to take a spin in the car. We didn't go far, just down the road to the Many Glacier Hotel, which was closed this time of year. We then headed back to main trailhead parking lot and set out on a highly recommended hike to Iceberg Lake. What was ahead of us was probably the best hike we have ever done (so far).

After the hike, we drove south to the east of the park to the town of East Glacier Park and stayed the night.
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Day 3:   Two Medicine, Paradise Point, Aster Falls, US 2, Camas and North Fork Roads, Polebridge, Bowman Lake
We left East Glacier Park in the morning and drove back to the Two Medicine area to take a hike to Paradise Point and Aster Falls. After that, we made the long drive around the south side of the park to West Glacier again. Our destination was the far northwest region of the park known as Polebridge. On this route we would see a large area of the park damaged by forest fires a few years ago. We enjoyed a stop at Bowman Lake before heading back to Lake McDonald Lodge.
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Day 4:   Avalanche Lake Trail, West Glacier, Whitefish
In the morning, after checking on conditions at Logan Pass, we hiked to Avalanche Lake near Lake McDonald. After an hour or so there, we hiked back out and then headed back out of the park to the town of West Glacier. A quick trip to the laundromat and then off for a driving tour of nearby cities Kalispell and Whitefish.
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Day 5:   Swiftcurrent Lake, Lake Josephine, Red Rock Falls Trail
Today we again tried Logan Pass, but it was fogged in again. We traveled all the way back around to the Many Glacier area to give the popular Grinnell Glacier hike a try. Because of the travel time we had a bit of a late start. For that and other reason (read on) we only made it part of the way, to Josephine Lake. After doubling back, we decided to finish the day by trying another Many Glacier hike to Red Rock Falls. Interestingly, the camping area we had stayed in a few days earlier was now closed for tent camping due to 'bear activity'.
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Day 6:   St. Mary, Sun Point, Virginia Falls, St. Mary Falls, Logan Pass, Highline Trail
On the sixth day, we were encouraged by sunny weather and warmer temperatures. This is what we had hoped for, at least one perfect day. We beelined from St. Mary to Logan Pass, where the Highline was not yet ready for us. We passed some time with a trip to St. Mary and Virginia Falls before returning to hike what many people think is one trail in the park you can't leave without hiking.
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Day 7:   Waterton Lakes, Red Rock Parkway and Canyon
Waterton Lakes is Glacier's sister park in Canada. Together they make the Glacier-Waterton International Peace Park. I'm not sure why Canada and the US felt the need to express their peace with one another. On our last day, we drove around to this northern park and toured the Waterton Townsite, a small town inside the park, and a few other areas including Cameron Lake, the Akamina Parkway, Red Rock Parkway and Canyon, and the Bison Paddock.
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